Hindsight is a wonderful thing. It allows you to describe an event with a lot more clarity in your thoughts. When I think back of my trip almost all of the time Manipur is the first thing that comes to mind. There are certain points in a trip like this that has a great impact on you. Manipur was one such place.
Manipur is an incredibly beautiful place. Hills on the sides, a vast central plain in the valley where Imphal is located with lush green paddy fields on both sides of the roads - its a delight riding a motorcycle there. Sadly this is not what is newsworthy in Manipur. Manipur is home to a large number of insurgent groups around 25 to 30 in an area of 22,327 sq Kms and is probably one among the most militarized zones in the world. Much more sadly even this fact rarely makes the news in the mainstream Indian media.
Manipur is primarily inhabited by the Meities, Kukis and Nagas. From each of them, a set of insurgent groups have sprouted up with aspirations ranging from a separate state to independence. What all of them have in common is that they have taken up guns to fulfill these aspirations. Meitie groups fight for an independent country, Naga groups fight for a greater Nagaland state ie to merge Naga dominated areas in Manipur with the Nagaland state, Kuki groups fight for a separate state for the Kukis. Although on a lighter note, I do like the idea of a separate state for Kukis as it will be called Kukiland. Who wouldn't like such a name. Anyway apart from these insurgent groups, just to spice up things for the people of the state there is also a commando unit of the Manipur police - very notorious for ruthlessly putting out any sort of opposition. The kinds who would prefer encounters over arrests. Then you have Indian Reserve Battalions (IRB) and the Assam Rifles who sometimes assist the Manipuri police in anti insurgency operations.
The political situation in Manipur is quite a complex one and one should never try to simplify such complex situations by assigning heroes to one side and villains on the other. Heroes invariably end up on your side while the villains are always on the other side. Everyone has their selfish interests and maintaining the status quo probably suits them. If you talk to people they will tell you that the insurgents extort money and the policemen do the same. The security situation ensures there is lesser accountability which makes the politicians task of siphoning money much easier. The AFSPA (Armed Forces Special Powers Act) adds to the woes. I am not a security expert to suggest that it should be repealed but when a woman (Irom Sharmila) has been on a peaceful hunger strike from Nov 2000 the country should take notice. Repealing it may or may not be feasible but I am sure a lot could be done to make the act more humane and the security forces more accountable for the violations they commit under this Act.
A person holding a gun looks appealing only when you trust them completely. It does not matter if they are wearing a uniform or they are part of an insurgent group. The police commandos who move around in Imphal have such menacing looks - it scared the hell out of me. I ensured that I never prolonged eye contact with them. In Army checkposts I am more comfortable. A father who has served in the Army helps. The other civilians present - the local Manipuris are dealt with a lot of arrogance almost bordering hostility in these checkposts. Perceptions matter. The forces stationed in Manipur could undergo some lessons on people skills. Otherwise it runs the risk of looking exactly like what some people will term it as - an occupying force out to colonize the state.
Manipur and more generally the north east is greatly ignored by the country. If I give out an India outline map to 15 year old kids with state boundaries outlined, I don think more than 20% of the people (I am being optimistic) will be able to place it correctly. Sadly the numbers are unlikely to change even when these kids turn 30. I was very skeptical of entering Manipur because of the security situation prevalent and was also advised against it. I am glad that I did not heed the advise and spent a good 6 days there. If there is a point in the bike trip where I can safely say that the trip changed me it is in Manipur. There are 3 stories that happened to me in a span of four days that completely humbled me. These are not stories of violence or hatred, these are stories of extreme kindness. The first story is in the border town of Moreh where I was short of cash and where there were no ATM's around - I was given food, shelter and a sum of Rs 1000 on my return. The second story is about when I got stranded in a small village called Barak and it got dark - I was given shelter free of cost by a woman who had a small shop there. The third story is that of truck drivers who helped me transport my bike free of cost to the next town when my bike broke down a few kilometers after Barak village the next morning.
I'll detail out the stories in my next entries. For now I just hope peace prevails in these areas
Manipur is an incredibly beautiful place. Hills on the sides, a vast central plain in the valley where Imphal is located with lush green paddy fields on both sides of the roads - its a delight riding a motorcycle there. Sadly this is not what is newsworthy in Manipur. Manipur is home to a large number of insurgent groups around 25 to 30 in an area of 22,327 sq Kms and is probably one among the most militarized zones in the world. Much more sadly even this fact rarely makes the news in the mainstream Indian media.
Manipur is primarily inhabited by the Meities, Kukis and Nagas. From each of them, a set of insurgent groups have sprouted up with aspirations ranging from a separate state to independence. What all of them have in common is that they have taken up guns to fulfill these aspirations. Meitie groups fight for an independent country, Naga groups fight for a greater Nagaland state ie to merge Naga dominated areas in Manipur with the Nagaland state, Kuki groups fight for a separate state for the Kukis. Although on a lighter note, I do like the idea of a separate state for Kukis as it will be called Kukiland. Who wouldn't like such a name. Anyway apart from these insurgent groups, just to spice up things for the people of the state there is also a commando unit of the Manipur police - very notorious for ruthlessly putting out any sort of opposition. The kinds who would prefer encounters over arrests. Then you have Indian Reserve Battalions (IRB) and the Assam Rifles who sometimes assist the Manipuri police in anti insurgency operations.
The political situation in Manipur is quite a complex one and one should never try to simplify such complex situations by assigning heroes to one side and villains on the other. Heroes invariably end up on your side while the villains are always on the other side. Everyone has their selfish interests and maintaining the status quo probably suits them. If you talk to people they will tell you that the insurgents extort money and the policemen do the same. The security situation ensures there is lesser accountability which makes the politicians task of siphoning money much easier. The AFSPA (Armed Forces Special Powers Act) adds to the woes. I am not a security expert to suggest that it should be repealed but when a woman (Irom Sharmila) has been on a peaceful hunger strike from Nov 2000 the country should take notice. Repealing it may or may not be feasible but I am sure a lot could be done to make the act more humane and the security forces more accountable for the violations they commit under this Act.
A person holding a gun looks appealing only when you trust them completely. It does not matter if they are wearing a uniform or they are part of an insurgent group. The police commandos who move around in Imphal have such menacing looks - it scared the hell out of me. I ensured that I never prolonged eye contact with them. In Army checkposts I am more comfortable. A father who has served in the Army helps. The other civilians present - the local Manipuris are dealt with a lot of arrogance almost bordering hostility in these checkposts. Perceptions matter. The forces stationed in Manipur could undergo some lessons on people skills. Otherwise it runs the risk of looking exactly like what some people will term it as - an occupying force out to colonize the state.
Manipur and more generally the north east is greatly ignored by the country. If I give out an India outline map to 15 year old kids with state boundaries outlined, I don think more than 20% of the people (I am being optimistic) will be able to place it correctly. Sadly the numbers are unlikely to change even when these kids turn 30. I was very skeptical of entering Manipur because of the security situation prevalent and was also advised against it. I am glad that I did not heed the advise and spent a good 6 days there. If there is a point in the bike trip where I can safely say that the trip changed me it is in Manipur. There are 3 stories that happened to me in a span of four days that completely humbled me. These are not stories of violence or hatred, these are stories of extreme kindness. The first story is in the border town of Moreh where I was short of cash and where there were no ATM's around - I was given food, shelter and a sum of Rs 1000 on my return. The second story is about when I got stranded in a small village called Barak and it got dark - I was given shelter free of cost by a woman who had a small shop there. The third story is that of truck drivers who helped me transport my bike free of cost to the next town when my bike broke down a few kilometers after Barak village the next morning.
I'll detail out the stories in my next entries. For now I just hope peace prevails in these areas
About Me:
A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you
Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.
Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.
You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account
A pity you didn't visit Irom Sharmila. I too would feel safer among regular units of the Indian Army but like you I am not a Manipuri. If you had wanted to see her. The process now is to apply in person with the SP Imphal Central Jail. Pay ten rupees admin which they seemed very keen to stress was not a bribe0-) visiting days for all women prisoners now in Manipur are Mondays Wednesdays and Fridays. It might have made an interesting blog entry.
ReplyDeleteOh I did not know that. I did contemplate it but then I did not know what I would do if I meet her. You have met her ?
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