The northeast is one of the most beautiful parts of India which is pretty much untouched on the tourism calendar of most Indians. Misinformation about the social and political conflicts in the region doesn't help matters. It is such a pity because people from these parts of the country are right there at the top of my most favorite people in this country list. Women are respected, men are soft spoken and everyone is very courteous. Just the way I like a society to be. I have so many feel good stories from these parts and it has been overwhelming. But there are times when the kindness bestowed by people puts you in a really tight spot. This is one such story.
The ride from Jorhat in Assam to Kohima in Nagaland is one which is etched in my memory. In between I had to stop at Dimapur and get inner line permits for Nagaland. Nagaland due to a lot of millitant groups active in the state (although there is a ceasefire in place for a long time now and it might be in probability one of the most peaceful states in India for a tourist at least) there are a lot of police checkposts. Nagaland policeman and Naga people in general are probably amongst the sweetest in the whole of the northeast. It is a very big deal as most people in all northeastern states are very sweet. I was stopped at the border gate at the Dimapur and the policeman asked me for a lot of Id proofs and I had to fill in some details in a register. He questioned me for some time too. But all the while he had a smile and said "I am very sorry Sir. It is just that we have to go through these procedures and its for your own safety. Do not feel bad" quite a few times in between the questioning. Now being the son of an Army officer definitely has its advantages. In a lot of police interactions I have felt that I have been accorded the courtesy because of the respect or sometimes fear the Army generates in a lot of policemen. Had my Dad not been in the Army then maybe I might not have been accorded the same courtesy. But with Nagaland policemen it was different. Not just this particular checkpost but even others where I did not have the need to mention that my Dad is an ex Army officer because it never came up, I was accorded the same courtesy and respect.
Now the best part about the conversations with Naga people - policemen and otherwise is that they are never intrusive. They speak very politely. A man on a motorcycle filled with luggage definitely intrigues a lot of people and they come up and talk to you starting with a smile. They ask you a question and they listen without ever interrupting you. They have the perfect sense and timing on how long to prolong a conversation if the other guy is in a hurry or something. At the end they always say "Have a safe journey Sir" and smile. Although once or twice the thought did cross my mind that the smile was sarcastic and there has never been a safe journey in Nagaland. Well its nothing to worry. Its more to do with my sense of humour (or the lack of it) which makes me think in these ways. Riding in Nagaland has always been pleasant.
Oh just in case I forget to mention one fruit vendor some 70 Kms before reaching Kohima gave me two pineapple slices free of cost when I had stopped there thinking he might have some fruit juice. He did not have any juices but then free sweet pineapple slices are a good replacement. So anyway I reached Kohima and was looking around for a hotel room. The one hotel room I checked did not have water in the bathrooms so I came back to where I parked my bike and was contemplating my next moves. I was planning to stay in Kohima for 2 to 3 days and I was looking for a comfortable room in Kohima. Since I was on a budget in this trip, what I generally do is stay in filthy rooms for a while - even the kinds where you only use the toilets in the morning before you check out so that your room won't stink when you are inside and then treat myself to a comfortable room preferably with running hot water for a day or two. Kohima, I reached in a time when i was looking for a comfortable room. While I was contemplating there came two men - one from Manipur and the other his junior from Kerala - both working in the BSNL office in Kohima. You might say I am being pompous but if I try to be humble here I would be lying. I can safely say that the man from Manipur was really really impressed by my bike ride story.
First he insisted that he buys me pakodas and chai from a nearby shop. Insisted is a mild word I use because I am nice and I have my limitations in vocabulary when describing a situation wherein the only way to end the interaction was to give in to his demands. That particular shop was closed and I thought I had an escape but then he insisted that we go to another shop. The man seemed to be a connoisseur of tea and pakodas since he did not go to the next available shop for tea and pakoda but instead took me along to a shop some 400 meters away. The tea and pakodas were fine but I don't think it was worth the effort of walking another 400 meters. Well there might be something that he knows that I don't and I am not complaining about it. So then over those lovely pakodas and tea I asked him if he could suggest some hotels around in a decent budget. He said that hotels around this area would be expensive and then he was suddenly struck with an idea and he insisted that I stay in the BSNL guest house which he was in a position to arrange for me. I thought about the pros and cons of it. The pros being getting a comfortable room free of cost or in a very reasonable amount - free of cost most likely which in turn would enable me to consume more quantities of alcohol (very likely). The cons being I don't know - maybe an off chance he asks for sexual favours for all the help (quite unlikely). Add to the fact that the man is not someone who takes No for an answer that easily, I decided to take up that offer.
So I took my bike in the BSNL complex. Before getting to the guest house he made me meet his superiors in the office and the man was telling my story to every person he came across and also mentioning the fact that I look like Ishant Sharma - the Indian cricketer (that was quite uncalled for Sir). Then he took me to the guest house. I was kind of confused when I saw it from the outside. It did not seem like the grand palace as I had imagined it to be but then I still hoped to be blown away by the luxurious interiors. Then he opened the door and yes I was blown away. Shocked and surprised might be a better way to describe it. One look in the room and I knew I would only sleep here if there was a war going on outside or if there is a possibility of me getting laid with a woman who is right up there on the looks department. He looked at me and asked if it was ok. I was tempted to tell him as to what was exactly going through my mind but then I did not have the heart to tell him that. I just said it is perfect and resigned to my fate. I somehow managed to sleep in the room that night and early the next morning I decided that I would leave that room and check into some nice hotel for the next two days. I knew it would be difficult to convince him and till the time I was in Kohima, he would try and find me some other place to crash in if I was not finding this place to my liking.
The next morning while I packed up my stuff and waited for that guy to come and see me off I was in a dilemma. Should I just make an excuse and leave or should I be honest and upfront about my plans to him. He came, again mentioned to everyone who cared to listen about my story and about how I looked like Ishant Sharma (Why does he keep doing that ? ). I looked at him and thought if only he asked for sexual favours things would have been so much more easier. Still I mustered up enough courage and did the manly thing. I lied through my teeth and bid him goodbye. I told him that I was heading to Imphal today and said my goodbyes. I even went to the Nagaland heritage village just on the outskirts of the Kohima city in full riding gear and strapped with luggage. I entered the World War 2 museum located there in my riding gear. Not that I mind it that much but then I would never have imagined myself entering a museum in riding gear. I came back to Kohima in the afternoon. Found a hotel room which suited my budget and comfort and took that hot water bath in the shower I was just pining for all the while hoping against hope that I don't come across him again till the time I was in Kohima.
To that man from Manipur in Kohima - Sir if you happen to come across this blog, I am really sorry. I wanted that hot water bath real bad. I might have exaggerated a bit (not really. I am just trying to be polite) describing the state of the guest house and maybe if it was some other day I might have gladly stayed in that guest house. But all said and done that thing you do about comparing me with Ishant Sharma on looks is not amusing at all :)
The ride from Jorhat in Assam to Kohima in Nagaland is one which is etched in my memory. In between I had to stop at Dimapur and get inner line permits for Nagaland. Nagaland due to a lot of millitant groups active in the state (although there is a ceasefire in place for a long time now and it might be in probability one of the most peaceful states in India for a tourist at least) there are a lot of police checkposts. Nagaland policeman and Naga people in general are probably amongst the sweetest in the whole of the northeast. It is a very big deal as most people in all northeastern states are very sweet. I was stopped at the border gate at the Dimapur and the policeman asked me for a lot of Id proofs and I had to fill in some details in a register. He questioned me for some time too. But all the while he had a smile and said "I am very sorry Sir. It is just that we have to go through these procedures and its for your own safety. Do not feel bad" quite a few times in between the questioning. Now being the son of an Army officer definitely has its advantages. In a lot of police interactions I have felt that I have been accorded the courtesy because of the respect or sometimes fear the Army generates in a lot of policemen. Had my Dad not been in the Army then maybe I might not have been accorded the same courtesy. But with Nagaland policemen it was different. Not just this particular checkpost but even others where I did not have the need to mention that my Dad is an ex Army officer because it never came up, I was accorded the same courtesy and respect.
Now the best part about the conversations with Naga people - policemen and otherwise is that they are never intrusive. They speak very politely. A man on a motorcycle filled with luggage definitely intrigues a lot of people and they come up and talk to you starting with a smile. They ask you a question and they listen without ever interrupting you. They have the perfect sense and timing on how long to prolong a conversation if the other guy is in a hurry or something. At the end they always say "Have a safe journey Sir" and smile. Although once or twice the thought did cross my mind that the smile was sarcastic and there has never been a safe journey in Nagaland. Well its nothing to worry. Its more to do with my sense of humour (or the lack of it) which makes me think in these ways. Riding in Nagaland has always been pleasant.
Oh just in case I forget to mention one fruit vendor some 70 Kms before reaching Kohima gave me two pineapple slices free of cost when I had stopped there thinking he might have some fruit juice. He did not have any juices but then free sweet pineapple slices are a good replacement. So anyway I reached Kohima and was looking around for a hotel room. The one hotel room I checked did not have water in the bathrooms so I came back to where I parked my bike and was contemplating my next moves. I was planning to stay in Kohima for 2 to 3 days and I was looking for a comfortable room in Kohima. Since I was on a budget in this trip, what I generally do is stay in filthy rooms for a while - even the kinds where you only use the toilets in the morning before you check out so that your room won't stink when you are inside and then treat myself to a comfortable room preferably with running hot water for a day or two. Kohima, I reached in a time when i was looking for a comfortable room. While I was contemplating there came two men - one from Manipur and the other his junior from Kerala - both working in the BSNL office in Kohima. You might say I am being pompous but if I try to be humble here I would be lying. I can safely say that the man from Manipur was really really impressed by my bike ride story.
First he insisted that he buys me pakodas and chai from a nearby shop. Insisted is a mild word I use because I am nice and I have my limitations in vocabulary when describing a situation wherein the only way to end the interaction was to give in to his demands. That particular shop was closed and I thought I had an escape but then he insisted that we go to another shop. The man seemed to be a connoisseur of tea and pakodas since he did not go to the next available shop for tea and pakoda but instead took me along to a shop some 400 meters away. The tea and pakodas were fine but I don't think it was worth the effort of walking another 400 meters. Well there might be something that he knows that I don't and I am not complaining about it. So then over those lovely pakodas and tea I asked him if he could suggest some hotels around in a decent budget. He said that hotels around this area would be expensive and then he was suddenly struck with an idea and he insisted that I stay in the BSNL guest house which he was in a position to arrange for me. I thought about the pros and cons of it. The pros being getting a comfortable room free of cost or in a very reasonable amount - free of cost most likely which in turn would enable me to consume more quantities of alcohol (very likely). The cons being I don't know - maybe an off chance he asks for sexual favours for all the help (quite unlikely). Add to the fact that the man is not someone who takes No for an answer that easily, I decided to take up that offer.
So I took my bike in the BSNL complex. Before getting to the guest house he made me meet his superiors in the office and the man was telling my story to every person he came across and also mentioning the fact that I look like Ishant Sharma - the Indian cricketer (that was quite uncalled for Sir). Then he took me to the guest house. I was kind of confused when I saw it from the outside. It did not seem like the grand palace as I had imagined it to be but then I still hoped to be blown away by the luxurious interiors. Then he opened the door and yes I was blown away. Shocked and surprised might be a better way to describe it. One look in the room and I knew I would only sleep here if there was a war going on outside or if there is a possibility of me getting laid with a woman who is right up there on the looks department. He looked at me and asked if it was ok. I was tempted to tell him as to what was exactly going through my mind but then I did not have the heart to tell him that. I just said it is perfect and resigned to my fate. I somehow managed to sleep in the room that night and early the next morning I decided that I would leave that room and check into some nice hotel for the next two days. I knew it would be difficult to convince him and till the time I was in Kohima, he would try and find me some other place to crash in if I was not finding this place to my liking.
The next morning while I packed up my stuff and waited for that guy to come and see me off I was in a dilemma. Should I just make an excuse and leave or should I be honest and upfront about my plans to him. He came, again mentioned to everyone who cared to listen about my story and about how I looked like Ishant Sharma (Why does he keep doing that ? ). I looked at him and thought if only he asked for sexual favours things would have been so much more easier. Still I mustered up enough courage and did the manly thing. I lied through my teeth and bid him goodbye. I told him that I was heading to Imphal today and said my goodbyes. I even went to the Nagaland heritage village just on the outskirts of the Kohima city in full riding gear and strapped with luggage. I entered the World War 2 museum located there in my riding gear. Not that I mind it that much but then I would never have imagined myself entering a museum in riding gear. I came back to Kohima in the afternoon. Found a hotel room which suited my budget and comfort and took that hot water bath in the shower I was just pining for all the while hoping against hope that I don't come across him again till the time I was in Kohima.
To that man from Manipur in Kohima - Sir if you happen to come across this blog, I am really sorry. I wanted that hot water bath real bad. I might have exaggerated a bit (not really. I am just trying to be polite) describing the state of the guest house and maybe if it was some other day I might have gladly stayed in that guest house. But all said and done that thing you do about comparing me with Ishant Sharma on looks is not amusing at all :)
About Me:
A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you
Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.
Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.
You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account
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