Bhutan is a mythical place. The stories you hear of Bhutan will always intrigue and excite you. You are full of expectations and you look forward to visit Bhutan. Bhutan conducts itself in sharp contrast to what the rest of the world considers normal or rather practical. Gross National Happiness instead of Gross Domestic product, preserving the forest cover instead of rapid industrialization and the reluctance to embrace globalization at a fast pace is very opposite to the conventional wisdom prevalent in most parts of the world. Critics and there are quite a few, might argue that it is Utopian dream - a bubble waiting to burst and burst out pretty loud. Well I am no expert. Maybe its just a Utopian dream and the bubble is set to burst. I just wanted to make sure I have visited Bhutan before the bubble bursts.
Walking an unconventional path often tends to create idiosyncrasies of their own. Bhutan is no different. There is so much confusion regarding entry formalities in Bhutan for tourists that no matter how much you research you are still bound to be a little confused when you reach the border town. In case you are Indian things are a lot easier but still a bit confusing. I have penned down my experiences in a blog at that time. I'll paste the link to that blog entry at the end of this post. I hope it would be of help to any Indian tourist who plans to enter Bhutan by road.
This entry however is the story of the evening when I was in Jaigaon. Jaigaon is the border town in West Bengal wherein you enter Bhutan through Phuntshooling. Jaigaon is like any typical Indian small town - chaotic, loud and unorganized. Being Indian I am used to all this and if I don't have to drive in these conditions I sometimes like it too. Where it is unlike a lot of other small towns is the fact that there is a very unimpressive gate just near the marketplace and on the other side of the gate is a different country. I reached Jaigaon in the evening and even in the fading lights I could make out that the other side was cleaner and more orderly. Anyway I found a hotel room some 200 metres from the border gate and checked in there for the night.
Like I mentioned there is a lot of confusion about entry formalities in Bhutan specially if you are a single traveler. I had read up on the internet that single tourists are not allowed entry and that sort of thing and I had pretty much prepared myself with the fact that I might not be allowed to enter Bhutan. Also as soon as I checked into the hotel, the reception guy who also acted as a tourist guide told me with a lot of conviction citing his years of experience as a tourist guide in these parts that single tourists will not be allowed into Bhutan. I anyway told him that since I had come this far I might as well try for it the next morning. He was supportive but it was the kind of support you tend to give to a losing cause just to keep you happy for some more time. I realized it and went to my room and I knew there was a problem. I really wanted to travel Bhutan and I realized I might have to do it some other time or if luck favoured me some motorcycle groups might end up here and I can tag along with them. I was trying to find solutions sitting and thinking about the problem in hand and after a while I realized the best way to deal with these problems is the most obvious one - go out get drunk and deal with the problem at the time when it is supposed to be dealt with. So I went out looking for a bar in that small town of Jaigaon to drown my sorrows in alcohol.
So I exited my hotel and took a right on the market road and walked a good 800 metres. Then I walked a little more. Then I walked back to my hotel and started walking in the other direction. I couldn't walk for more than 500 meters in that direction because of a fencing erected between the Indian and the Bhutanese borders. It was very surprising that I couldn't spot a single bar or a liquor shop all this while. I have slept the night in a lot of small towns during the course of my trip and I know for a fact that there is an alcohol shop in a 1 Km radius 90% of the times unless there is a religious significance to the city. Jaigaon is no significant city - religious or otherwise. Its only claim to fame is being the border town and even then most people will be impressed by Phuntshooling - the town on the Bhutanese side of the border. I was perplexed and thought of going back to my room but then I thought I'll just ask a shopkeeper for directions to the bar.
Thank God for that. He told me that there are no bars in Jaigaon and if you want to drink you need to cross over to the Bhutanese side some 100 metres away where you will find lots n lots of bars. Apparently Indians can cross over Phuntshooling town without any documentation. They just have to cross back to the Indian side by 9:30 pm IST (10:00 pm BST) before the border gates close. I crossed over, found a modest bar and suddenly understood the reason why Jaigaon is barless. Special Courier Whisky a very decent Bhutanese Scotch (I found it better than Blenders pride) was available for Rs 35 for a large peg. I had three different types of meat, one plate of fish and three large pegs of Special courier whisky and when I asked for the bill it turned out to be 325 Rupees. I was speechless. I decided even if I had to sleep with the immigration authorities in Bhutan I will do that but I'll make sure that I enter Bhutan.
Oh by the way just out of context a lot of people specially after watching the movie 'Lunchbox' tend to believe that 1 Indian Rupees equals to 5 Nu (Bhutanese currency). It is not the case. The Indian and Bhutanese currencies are of equal value.
Anyway the next day I did get an entry to Bhutan and NO I did not have to sleep with anyone. As it turns out the hotel reception guys conviction was misplaced and I traveled the entire breadth of Bhutan on my motorcycle. The landscape is something that will render you speechless. I remember riding through Eastern Bhutan and stopping every 10 to 15 min to click pictures and sometimes just to soak in the atmosphere. There is definitely something about Bhutan - I kid you not. The people, the places - its not something you will easily forget. Maybe its the Utopian dream they are trying to live. Maybe its impractical in the long run, so make sure you visit before the bubble bursts and Bhutan becomes just like the rest of us. But do pray and hope that the bubble never bursts.
P.S
This is my blog entry I had penned down about entering Bhutan. This is for Indian tourists only. Hope it is of some help in case someone plans a road trip to Bhutan.
http://thecluelessrider.blogspot.in/2013/08/guidelines-for-indian-tourists-entering.html
Walking an unconventional path often tends to create idiosyncrasies of their own. Bhutan is no different. There is so much confusion regarding entry formalities in Bhutan for tourists that no matter how much you research you are still bound to be a little confused when you reach the border town. In case you are Indian things are a lot easier but still a bit confusing. I have penned down my experiences in a blog at that time. I'll paste the link to that blog entry at the end of this post. I hope it would be of help to any Indian tourist who plans to enter Bhutan by road.
This entry however is the story of the evening when I was in Jaigaon. Jaigaon is the border town in West Bengal wherein you enter Bhutan through Phuntshooling. Jaigaon is like any typical Indian small town - chaotic, loud and unorganized. Being Indian I am used to all this and if I don't have to drive in these conditions I sometimes like it too. Where it is unlike a lot of other small towns is the fact that there is a very unimpressive gate just near the marketplace and on the other side of the gate is a different country. I reached Jaigaon in the evening and even in the fading lights I could make out that the other side was cleaner and more orderly. Anyway I found a hotel room some 200 metres from the border gate and checked in there for the night.
Like I mentioned there is a lot of confusion about entry formalities in Bhutan specially if you are a single traveler. I had read up on the internet that single tourists are not allowed entry and that sort of thing and I had pretty much prepared myself with the fact that I might not be allowed to enter Bhutan. Also as soon as I checked into the hotel, the reception guy who also acted as a tourist guide told me with a lot of conviction citing his years of experience as a tourist guide in these parts that single tourists will not be allowed into Bhutan. I anyway told him that since I had come this far I might as well try for it the next morning. He was supportive but it was the kind of support you tend to give to a losing cause just to keep you happy for some more time. I realized it and went to my room and I knew there was a problem. I really wanted to travel Bhutan and I realized I might have to do it some other time or if luck favoured me some motorcycle groups might end up here and I can tag along with them. I was trying to find solutions sitting and thinking about the problem in hand and after a while I realized the best way to deal with these problems is the most obvious one - go out get drunk and deal with the problem at the time when it is supposed to be dealt with. So I went out looking for a bar in that small town of Jaigaon to drown my sorrows in alcohol.
So I exited my hotel and took a right on the market road and walked a good 800 metres. Then I walked a little more. Then I walked back to my hotel and started walking in the other direction. I couldn't walk for more than 500 meters in that direction because of a fencing erected between the Indian and the Bhutanese borders. It was very surprising that I couldn't spot a single bar or a liquor shop all this while. I have slept the night in a lot of small towns during the course of my trip and I know for a fact that there is an alcohol shop in a 1 Km radius 90% of the times unless there is a religious significance to the city. Jaigaon is no significant city - religious or otherwise. Its only claim to fame is being the border town and even then most people will be impressed by Phuntshooling - the town on the Bhutanese side of the border. I was perplexed and thought of going back to my room but then I thought I'll just ask a shopkeeper for directions to the bar.
Thank God for that. He told me that there are no bars in Jaigaon and if you want to drink you need to cross over to the Bhutanese side some 100 metres away where you will find lots n lots of bars. Apparently Indians can cross over Phuntshooling town without any documentation. They just have to cross back to the Indian side by 9:30 pm IST (10:00 pm BST) before the border gates close. I crossed over, found a modest bar and suddenly understood the reason why Jaigaon is barless. Special Courier Whisky a very decent Bhutanese Scotch (I found it better than Blenders pride) was available for Rs 35 for a large peg. I had three different types of meat, one plate of fish and three large pegs of Special courier whisky and when I asked for the bill it turned out to be 325 Rupees. I was speechless. I decided even if I had to sleep with the immigration authorities in Bhutan I will do that but I'll make sure that I enter Bhutan.
Oh by the way just out of context a lot of people specially after watching the movie 'Lunchbox' tend to believe that 1 Indian Rupees equals to 5 Nu (Bhutanese currency). It is not the case. The Indian and Bhutanese currencies are of equal value.
Anyway the next day I did get an entry to Bhutan and NO I did not have to sleep with anyone. As it turns out the hotel reception guys conviction was misplaced and I traveled the entire breadth of Bhutan on my motorcycle. The landscape is something that will render you speechless. I remember riding through Eastern Bhutan and stopping every 10 to 15 min to click pictures and sometimes just to soak in the atmosphere. There is definitely something about Bhutan - I kid you not. The people, the places - its not something you will easily forget. Maybe its the Utopian dream they are trying to live. Maybe its impractical in the long run, so make sure you visit before the bubble bursts and Bhutan becomes just like the rest of us. But do pray and hope that the bubble never bursts.
About Me:
A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you
Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.
Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.
You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account
P.S
This is my blog entry I had penned down about entering Bhutan. This is for Indian tourists only. Hope it is of some help in case someone plans a road trip to Bhutan.
http://thecluelessrider.blogspot.in/2013/08/guidelines-for-indian-tourists-entering.html
your article about bhutan is speechless...its so nice...
ReplyDeleteThank you..
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