This Dhaba On The Patna - Purnia Road Serves You Food For Thought

When I set forth on this solo motorcycle journey, I had hoped I would come out wiser. Traveling they say enlightens people and I was counting on that. Everyday I waited for that flash of brilliance to strike me but it eluded me. When I reached Patna, I even paid a visit to the Bodhgaya temple in search for that elusive enlightenment. Still did not happen. I came back to Patna, drowned my sorrows in alcohol and had pretty much resigned to the fact that I might never be enlightened in life.

But then God (more popularly known as THE GUY up there) works in mysterious ways. The next morning on my way to Purnia from Patna, somewhere along the way I stopped at a roadside dhaba for breakfast. I sat down and wherever my gaze landed on those Dhaba walls, there were these pearls of wisdom. The enlightenment I was seeking everywhere, finally came to me in this nondescript Dhaba somewhere on the Patna - Purnea highway. I had gone in searching for some food but came out with quite some food for thought. The Dhaba owner wrote this on his walls. Although I don't understand why he needs to explain everything in terms of three things :)

1) Three things once out, never come back. Arrow from a bow, words from the mouth and life from the body.

Well, be very sure of what you order in this dhaba. Once you order, he won't entertain any changes even if you immediately want to change your order. Words once out of the mouth cannot be taken back :)

2) There are three things nobody can steal from you. Intelligence, Character, Skill

I have a feeling he was mocking me. I am a characterless man with zero intelligence and skills. They bloddy well can't steal any of these from me.

3) Three things that are necessary to remember. Truthfulness, Duties and Death

This one is a veiled threat. Do not try to run away from this place without paying for the food. I understand it is my duty to pay for the food or else you could be clobbered to death. 

4) Three things wait for none. Time, Death and Customer

And I waited 18 minutes for my food (I checked). 

5) There are three things which can foster enmity between brothers. Money, Wife and Land.

Wives being equated with money and land. After all women are just property. So not a male chauvinist :)

6) There are three things which you will only get once in life. Mother, Father and Youth

And this man in the picture looks like he has lost all of them. :) 

7) Three things are better kept covered. Money, Women and food

Oh there is a fourth thing that is also better if covered. This quote :)

And finally

About Me:

A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you

Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.

You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account

To Veronica - Because Some Stories Are Very Special (Part 2 of 2)

The underlined text is the first part of the entry that I had already posted. In case you have read the first part, please scroll down to the text that is not underlined

Part 1

On the stretch of highway from Imphal to Silchar, there is a patch of around 40 Kms where its just a dirt road.It was highly slushy when I was traveling, due to the rains. I had been advised not to take this road by the hotel staff in Imphal. I had ridden through a few bad stretches across the country and a tinge of arrogance did creep in. I ignored the advise in my arrogance and I can only curse myself.

Now these weren't the worst of roads I had faced. Elsewhere bad patches extend for about 4 - 5 Kms to a max of 10 Kms. This one stretched a whole 40 Kms and my patience is tested. When your patience is tested, you start with a sarcastic just my luck kind of a look. In a while you start abusing your luck. After that you start pleading with God to change your luck. Then you just stop complaining and start giving yourself a pep talk. This stretch did all that and some more. But somewhere in these slushy roads there is a small village called 'Barak'. You have cities and you have tier 2, tier 3 cities. Similarly you have villages and tier 2, tier 3 villages. Barak was one of them. By the time I reached there it was quite dark and the security situation in Manipur being what it is, the sentry in the CRPF post did not allow me to travel further. I had to wait till dawn to start off again. Frankly I was relieved. The slushy stretch still had another 10 odd Kms and some rest would not hurt me. I just had to find a place to sleep.

I ask the CRPF personnel stationed in that check post if there is a hotel or any place nearby wherein I could spend the night. He replied in the negative. Not that I expected a hotel in this village. I was just trying to warm up to him and ask him to give me a place to rest for the night in his bunker or along side his bunker. I had a sleeping bag with me and just needed a roof to rest till dawn and continue on my way to Silchar. So I asked him if I could park my bike near the sentry post somewhere and if he could offer me a place to sleep. I slipped in the fact that my father was an ex Army officer just to shift the odds in my favour. I overestimate my shrewdness. None of the tricks work. The rules dictate that no civilian is allowed in those spaces.

Rules and procedures I believe, should be followed more in spirit than in letter. People in the ground should be trusted enough to make that call. I could sense the discomfort in the CRPF guy. In my heart I knew he wanted to help me out but he just couldn't risk bending rules. One often thinks the world is an unkind place. But im my experience of  this bike trip, whenever I have needed help, be it big or small, people present over there have risen up to the occasion and helped me. I know from his looks that he wants to help me but he does not have the authority to help me out. I still know I can get a place to sleep there if I persist with him. I'll just have to talk to a few other colleagues of his, some seniors, maybe talk to some other senior in some base location on the phone, tell my story to everyone and prove my identity to half of them. I was dead tired and I neither had the will nor the inclination to do all that. I just decided, I'll go to those small shops on the other side of the road and ask them if they could give me a place to sleep for the night.

The CRPF check post is on the left side of the road just before the steel bridge over a river. On the other side of the road, I head to the first shop I can see to try my luck. It is actually a small two room hut with a window cut out for a makeshift shop- the kind which will have some biscuits, cigarettes, maggi packets, some tetra packs of fruit juices and possibly tea. The door is open and I have a sneak peek of the other room. It is mostly empty. Maybe there is a modest dining table and a bench somewhere in the corner. Also the thatched roof of the hut extends a little from the front wall. I could use that space to park my bike. This place was perfect. I just have to say the right words and my problems are solved. With a hopeful look and the politest smile I could manage, I go up to the window counter of the shop.

There is a lady, presumably in her early to mid 30's running the shop. She smiles. It is a very kind smile. We exchange simple greetings and I  ask her if she has a place she could offer me, where I could sleep for the night. Before I could say anything else she says "You are most welcome". I ask her how much it will cost me. She replies "You are most welcome". I have a feeling that she did not understand my second question. But then I decide to deal with it in the morning. For now I needed a place to sleep very badly. I thank her and I ask her if I could bring my motorcycle to the shop and park it in the space alongside the wall of the hut. She says "Yes". I am a bit relieved - one for the fact that I got a place to sleep the first place I enquired and secondly the fact that I managed it in under 2 minutes. I mean if there is a record for the shortest time you negotiate for a place to sleep when stranded in an unknown village, for all I know I just might have broken it.

Meet Veronica

Veronica

Part 2

A petite woman with a perpetual look of sadness in her eyes. I kind of know there is something in her life that bothers her, but I do not know what bothers her. I park my bike, keep my stuff in the room and head to talk and have our introductions. She is drunk. There is another man and another woman along with her. The man is also drunk but I am not sure about the other woman. I come to know that they are siblings. Two sisters and a brother sitting together and having a drink - now that is not something you would expect in a tier 4 village in this country. I like the fact that these parts are a bit different from the other parts of the country in this regard. Not the fact that people are drinking, just the fact that women are not specifically being judged by a moral prism because they are drinking. I go to them and over broken English and Hindi we do manage a decent conversation. By the end of it I asked them if there is a place where I could probably get some dinner. Veronica's brother points out that there is a restaurant on the other side of the bridge hardly 200 meters away. I decide to go, have dinner and come back. I had just started walking when Veronica calls out and stops me. I stop. She comes over and says "Wait it is too dangerous". I do not understand. The place is hardly 200 metres away. The road is slushy and yes I have to cross an iron bridge which probably doesn't have enough space if a truck comes in. But I do think I can manage. I mean, I did travel across the length and breadth of the country on my motorcycle and I think managing this 200 meter walk for my dinner should be a piece of cake. Then I see she is carrying a torch and she says "Come with me". Veronica has the friendliness that alcohol sometimes does to you. I try telling her that I'll manage and I don't want to make it inconvenient for her. She looks at me. I don't think she understood me because she - all of 5 feet 0 inches now starts walking with a torchlight towards the bridge, and I - all of 6 foot 3 inches follow her quietly. I guess I am not that good at convincing people as I like to believe.

We reach the restaurant and I sit down quietly on the wooden bench and the man in the restaurant places my food before me. I eat quietly and Veronica sits on the other side of the table patiently waiting for me to finish my meal. I finish my meal and again she leads with the torchlight on and I quietly follow behind. She asks me something about the meal I just had. I say it was good. She then asks me if I needed something more to eat. I say I am good. She then asks me if I want to drink. I say "No thank you. I do not drink". A split second later I can't believe what I just said. I could definitely use some alcohol. It was a tough, slow, painfully irritating ride and a drink would have been welcome. Throughout my bike trip, I have in fact, actively scouted for alcohol at the end of every day's ride. I would like to claim that I have no idea why I refused a drink but then I would be lying. I very well knew why I refused and I am very ashamed of it.

It is that thing we call stereotypes. I have always prided myself on the fact that I have refused to entertain any kind of stereotypes, no matter how charismatic the other person is, in trying to convince me of them. But still in that split second - a drunk woman helping me out readily and offering me alcohol and I assume she wanted to sleep with me. A moment later, I was so ashamed of myself. Here was a woman who gave me a place to sleep when I was stranded and as I could now see - all she wanted was someone to talk to. She was reaching out to me but I was reluctant. Yes, she needed intimacy but of a different kind, a kind which I am aware of but I have seldom tried to understand.

We are back at the shop now and she brings me a mat, a blanket  and a pillow from her house nearby. She sits on a chair nearby and ask me if I am tired and whether I would like to sleep. I say No and sit up. Then she starts talking - talking about her husband who had left her 5 years back, talking about her two sons mentioning how beautiful her sons were. She was proud of the elder one as he had ambitions to become an engineer. She was a little worried about the younger one as he wasn't that keen to study and wanted to help his mother run the shop. I mumbled a word here n there in between but mostly I did not say a word. I just thought of the women I interacted with (very few - less than 5 maybe) compared to the men I have interacted with on this whole India trip. Most men I have met on the way when they talk, they tell me about themselves. How they have traveled to distant places, the adventurous things they have done, what they dream of, what they aspire to and then maybe about their children and rarely about their spouses. I also thought about my mother and other women I am close to. I then thought whether I ought to sing praises about the selflessness of women or whether I should be saddened by the fact that a woman is conditioned by the society to find her identity as a wife or a mother. These thoughts continuously run in my head all the while she is talking. After a while she says "You sleep now. Don't be afraid ok. I'll lock the shop from outside. My house is just over there". Her brother joins her now and they sit on the bench near the dining table on the corner of the room. I presume they are about to drink again. I do not know as I just doze off pretty soon.

The room where I slept. Veronica got me a mat, a pillow and a blanket

Next morning when I woke up, she is already sitting at the shop. I get ready to leave. I ask her how much should I be paying for the room. She says "No need to pay". I try to insist and politely ask again. She says "No need to pay" again this time a little sternly. I was ashamed of my behaviour once again - twice in two days. I again fall in that trap of stereotypes. If it was a rich person who had let me a room to stay, I would have never insulted them by offering to pay them. When a poor person decides to help me, somewhere I feel the need to pay them. Instead of just feeling grateful, I was trying to belittle her kindness by paying her money. So I just decided to buy things from her store. I bought cigarette packets, bought some biscuits and small packets of cake and fruit juices and had them before heading to leave. As I bid my goodbye and was about to start my motorcycle, Veronica comes up to me with a packet of cake and tells me to keep it for the road. I am overwhelmed and I smile and plead that I do not need it. I had stocked some other stuff in my bag from her shop already. I just was not going to take it. 

And then she said "You will feel hungry. Have it. I have nothing much to give. Keep it". I heard that and my eyes welled up. I just took that packet, started my bike and left immediately because tears were about to trickle down my eyes. This is the only time in my 7 month bike trip when I have cried. I just wanted to make sure she doesn't see it. 

This was a extremely bad stretch of road from Imphal to Silchar that I took, which the hotel staff in Imphal had warned me about. I had ignored their advise and was cursing myself the whole time. But in hindsight I am glad I never heeded their advise. When you start a motorcycle trip like this, you always romanticize about such stories. The charm of a motorcycle ride is the way it unexpectedly comes your way and just blows you away. I have had other beautiful, memorable stories in this motorcycle trip but this one was special. This is the first story I think about when I think about my motorcycle trip. I knew this was special because when I started my bike and rode off with tears in my eyes I somewhere knew - I had emerged a better man.

About Me:

A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you

Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.

You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account

To Veronica - Because Some Stories Are Very Special

On the stretch of highway from Imphal to Silchar, there is a patch of around 40 Kms where its just a dirt road.It was highly slushy when I was traveling, due to the rains. I had been advised not to take this road by the hotel staff in Imphal. I had ridden through a few bad stretches across the country and a tinge of arrogance did creep in. I ignored the advise in my arrogance and I can only curse myself.

Now these weren't the worst of roads I had faced. Elsewhere bad patches extend for about 4 - 5 Kms to a max of 10 Kms. This one stretched a whole 40 Kms and my patience is tested. When your patience is tested, you start with a sarcastic just my luck kind of a look. In a while you start abusing your luck. After that you start pleading with God to change your luck. Then you just stop complaining and start giving yourself a pep talk. This stretch did all that and some more. But somewhere in these slushy roads there is a small village called 'Barak'. You have cities and you have tier 2, tier 3 cities. Similarly you have villages and tier 2, tier 3 villages. Barak was one of them. By the time I reached there it was quite dark and the security situation in Manipur being what it is, the sentry in the CRPF post did not allow me to travel further. I had to wait till dawn to start off again. Frankly I was relieved. The slushy stretch still had another 10 odd Kms and some rest would not hurt me. I just had to find a place to sleep.

I ask the CRPF personnel stationed in that check post if there is a hotel or any place nearby wherein I could spend the night. He replied in the negative. Not that I expected a hotel in this village. I was just trying to warm up to him and ask him to give me a place to rest for the night in his bunker or along side his bunker. I had a sleeping bag with me and just needed a roof to rest till dawn and continue on my way to Silchar. So I asked him if I could park my bike near the sentry post somewhere and if he could offer me a place to sleep. I slipped in the fact that my father was an ex Army officer just to shift the odds in my favour. I overestimate my shrewdness. None of the tricks work. The rules dictate that no civilian is allowed in those spaces.

Rules and procedures I believe, should be followed more in spirit than in letter. People in the ground should be trusted enough to make that call. I could sense the discomfort in the CRPF guy. In my heart I knew he wanted to help me out but he just couldn't risk bending rules. One often thinks the world is an unkind place. But im my experience of  this bike trip, whenever I have needed help, be it big or small, people present over there have risen up to the occasion and helped me. I know from his looks that he wants to help me but he does not have the authority to help me out. I still know I can get a place to sleep there if I persist with him. I'll just have to talk to a few other colleagues of his, some seniors, maybe talk to some other senior in some base location on the phone, tell my story to everyone and prove my identity to half of them. I was dead tired and I neither had the will nor the inclination to do all that. I just decided, I'll go to those small shops on the other side of the road and ask them if they could give me a place to sleep for the night.

The CRPF check post is on the left side of the road just before the steel bridge over a river. On the other side of the road, I head to the first shop I can see to try my luck. It is actually a small two room hut with a window cut out for a makeshift shop- the kind which will have some biscuits, cigarettes, maggi packets, some tetra packs of fruit juices and possibly tea. The door is open and I have a sneak peek of the other room. It is mostly empty. Maybe there is a modest dining table and a bench somewhere in the corner. Also the thatched roof of the hut extends a little from the front wall. I could use that space to park my bike. This place was perfect. I just have to say the right words and my problems are solved. With a hopeful look and the politest smile I could manage, I go up to the window counter of the shop.

There is a lady, presumably in her early to mid 30's running the shop. She smiles. It is a very kind smile. We exchange simple greetings and I  ask her if she has a place she could offer me, where I could sleep for the night. Before I could say anything else she says "You are most welcome". I ask her how much it will cost me. She replies "You are most welcome". I have a feeling that she did not understand my second question. But then I decide to deal with it in the morning. For now I needed a place to sleep very badly. I thank her and I ask her if I could bring my motorcycle to the shop and park it in the space alongside the wall of the hut. She says "Yes". I am a bit relieved - one for the fact that I got a place to sleep the first place I enquired and secondly the fact that I managed it in under 2 minutes. I mean if there is a record for the shortest time you negotiate for a place to sleep when stranded in an unknown village, for all I know I just might have broken it.

Meet Veronica

(To be continued....)

You can check part 2 of the story in the below link
http://thecluelessrider.blogspot.in/2014/08/to-veronica-because-some-stories-are_22.html

About Me:

A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you

Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.

You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account

How To Fit In A Ladakh Motorcycle Trip In 15 Days Starting From Delhi

A Ladakh motorcycle trip is something that is on the mind of a lot of people but planning it out seems very difficult. When I travelled I had the luxury of time. A lot of people do not have the same luxury and I'll try to plan a rough itinerary of a possible motorcycle trip to Ladakh and try to fit it in 15 days. Keep in note I am keeping the starting point as Delhi. The route mentioned is Delhi -> Pathankot- > Srinagar -> Leh -> places around Leh -> Manali and finally back to Delhi.

Most importantly keep these pointers in mind before starting the trip. One thing I forgot here was that prepaid numbers from non J & K states won't work here. So make sure you have a postpaid connection on your cell phone. A lot of areas in Ladakh, you might not catch a signal even then. But a vacation without cell phones is not really that bad a deal. :)

Day 1 - Delhi to Pathankot

• Distance : 486.5 Kms
• Yes you would have to push yourself a bit. But then its the plains and the highways are good enough.
• Start early morning by 5 if possible and beat the city traffic. It easily saves you an hour or more
• It should take you 12 to 14 hours including food breaks and all
• You want to spend more time in Ladakh, trust me. So push yourself a bit on these initial days

Day 2 Pathankot to Srinagar

• Distance: 363 Kms
• Yes start early. I mean its always advisable
• There is a route which you can take to bypass Jammu and reach Udhampur directly. Check on it. I had to go to a friends place in Jammu, so I never bothered. Moreover I always had the luxury of time
• 12 - 13 hrs including food breaks. You will start spending time to click pictures

Day 3: Rest in Srinagar and roam around Srinagar

Somewhere close to the Hazrat Bal mosque

• If you have never visited Srinagar before do spend a day here
• Check out the Shankaracharya Mandir, Nishat garden, Shalimar garden, Hazratbal mosque. All of them overlook the Dal lake
• For more pictures of Srinagar check out this link  

Day 4: Srinagar to Kargil

Enroute Kargil after the Zojila pass

• Distance - 204 Kms
• You will cross the Zojila pass, Dras town, Kargil war memorial before reaching the Kargil town
• The roads aren't that great but I think its the view that slows you down more
• You are sure to spend more time clicking pictures
• Take it slow. Spend 14 hours on the road if you have to. The views are breathtaking.
• Fill up petrol in Srinagar for sure. Although you will find some 3 to 4 petrol pumps on the way but still be on the safer side
• After Kargil the next place you will find hotel rooms is probably Lamayuru some 100 Kms away. So stay the night at Kargil

Day 5: Kargil to Leh

Enroute Leh

• Distance - 210 Kms
• Fill up petrol in Kargil just to be on the safer side. Although you may find 3 to 4 petrol pumps on the way
• You will pass through Lamayuru and the Magnetic hill
• Finally you made into Leh. You will just love this feeling. But the best is yet to come, trust me
• You can check the pictures of Srinagar to Leh ride here

Day 6: Leh

Leh city 

• Get your permits for Nubra valley, Pangong Tso lake, Tso Moriri lake
• Roam around Leh city. Check out the Hemis monastery some 40 odd kms from Leh
• Get your bike checked and fixed in one of the workshops. After Leh the next place to find mechanics easily is in Manali
• Although I have heard that from May 1st 2014, Indian citizens do not need a inner line permit for visiting these places. If true its a major relief. Foreign nationals would still need a Protected area permit though.
• You can ask any travel agent in Leh for the permits or get it yourself from the DC office in Leh
• For more pictures of Leh check out this link

Day 7: Leh to Nubra and back

Enroute Khardungla

• Distance : 230 Km (115 Km one way)
• It should take you approximately 14 hours including stops for pictures and everything. 
• Start very early from Leh by 5 am
• You will be passing through Khardung La - the worlds highest motorable point
• When you reach Khardung la, click your pictures and continue forward towards Nubra. Since it is at such a high altitude. locals advise that you don't spend more than 30 minutes there
• I just went till Khardung la and came back. I did not go to Nubra. I had to wait for 2 days in Leh before the Khardung la road opened because of unexpected bad weather. I did not want to risk going to Nubra and getting stuck there. When I went the weather played a little spoilsport
• So yes the weather can be a bitch. Keep that into consideration
• Be very careful on these roads. The roads can be very slippery at places. Drive carefully. Do not drive in the dark if possible. If you reach Nubra and you feel getting back to Leh before dark is tricky don't push it. Stay in Nubra for the night and come back the next day
• FILL UP PETROL IN LEH
• You can check out the Leh Khardung la pictures here

Day 8: Leh to Pangong lake

Image Source

• Distance - 214 Kms
• Fill up petrol in Leh and carry some extra petrol with you - 10 litres. I am assuming you will come back to Leh the next day
• I skipped Pangong lake because of some issues.
• I do regret that

Day 9: Back to Leh from Pangong

• There is a route which can take you from Pangong to Tso Moriri directly. This would save you a day
• However I am not sure of the permits thing in that route. I am more or less sure that foreign nationals are not allowed on that road. Check up on that. 
• If you are taking that route and subsequently you are heading to Manali, make sure you are carrying enough petrol to last you some 800 - 900 Kms when you start from Leh on Day 8

Day 10: Leh to Tso Moriri

• Distance - Around 230 Kms. Google maps doesn't show it but I know since I did it
• After travelling some 200 Kms you will find a beautiful lake and most probably you would assume it to be the Tso Moriri lake
• But its not. The road disappears when you almost pass this lake
• The last 20 Kms is a stretch without any roads. These are just jeep tracks. Pray that you don't encounter any flat tires but be prepared for it
• Fill up in Leh when you start and carry enough petrol to last you some 600 to 650 Kms.
• The 600 - 650 Kms is including the petrol already in your tank

Day 11: Tso Moriri to Sarchu

Somewhere on the TsoMoriri - Tsokar - Sarchu route

A place to sleep for the night in Sarchu

• Distance approximately 220 to 250 Kms
• The roads from Tso Moriri via Tso Kar to Sarchu alternates between good and non existent till you hit the Leh Manali highway some 40 odd Kms before Pang
• You might only find very modest places to sleep like the tent dhaba in the picture above
• They are quite comfortable and one bed was available at Rs 100 a night. 
• I do hope you still have some petrol left for atleast another 100 to 150 Kms :)

Day 12: Sarchu to Manali

Sarchu - Manali route

• Distance - around 230 Kms
• You will be crossing Rohtang pass before reaching Manali
• Reach there and relax a bit. Its all downhill after that. Literally
• You can check out the pics from Leh onwards here

Days 13 to 15: The boring part

• Its all downhill from here
• Maybe spend a day in Manali, fix your bike and do the stuff you want to :)
• Manali to Delhi is 539 Kms. Maybe you want to split it in two days or do it in one by pushing yourself
• Figure it out yourself. 

General tips

• Once you cross the Zojila pass after Srinagar and enter Ladakh population is very sparse. So take care of your diet and hydration and keep ample stock. You might encounter places where you travel for some 100 - 150 odd kms without spotting any shops or civilization
• Always carry extra cash around 4000 to 5000 bucks just in case of an emergency. ATM's may be sparse once you leave the towns.
• It does get cold. Make sure you have sufficient woolens. Keep spare dry woolen socks handy. A lot of places you may be crossing streams and you might feel the need for a fresh pair of socks.
• Woolen caps that cover ears under your helmet, woolen gloves under your biking gloves and anything woolen is strongly advisable
• I tried to fit it in 15 days. Obviously there are a lot more places to see in Ladakh. 
• Please do feel free to add stuff in the comments section which can make this itinerary a lot more better and other places whch could be fitted in.
• This is a rough itinerary. Do you research and skip parts you are not very keen on and add some other which you can fit in
• I hope this does help a bit. 

About Me:

A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you

Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.

You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account

When Maria Sharapova Was Asked About The Clueless Rider

A small excerpt from the Maria Sharapova post match press conference

Do You Know Sachin Tendulkar ?

Do You Know About The Clueless Rider ? 

The Clueless Rider (The link Maria was talking about)

Do Like / Share the page if you liked it :)

15 Things To Keep In Mind While Planning Your Ladakh Motorcycle Trip

Leh is definitely one of the most beautiful places in India and you should definitely visit this place at least once in your lifetime. In case you love riding motorcycles and do go on motorcycle trips here and there, trust me its a crime if you don't take your bike there. Keep these pointers in mind and go ahead and do that Leh motorcycle trip you always wanted to.

1) The Routes

There are two major routes to reach Leh. The Jammu -> Srinagar -> Leh highway and the Manali ->Leh highway. Both routes are extremely scenic and I would personally suggest that you take one route while going there and the other while coming back.

Srinagar Leh Route

Srinagar Leh Route

Leh - Manali Route

Leh - Manali Route

Although for whatever my experience counts, I think its better to take the Srinagar highway while going and taking the Manali route while coming back as the ascent to higher altitudes is more gradual in the former route and acclimatizing yourself to the altitude is easier in this way.

2) The best time to travel

The roads to Leh are only open for about 6 months a year for the tourist on both the routes. Starting from mid May - June first week to about mid October - November. So the months from June to September should be a safe bet. But then July August being monsoons could get a little tricky on the passes (Zojila pass in the Srinagar - Leh highway, Rohtang pass on the Manali - Leh highway). So basically June and September are the best months to travel but hey you can always be a little adventurous in the monsoon months.

Zojila pass. Although I was there in June, it was raining that day. Monsoons would be far worse I guess

P.S. If you are travelling around Independence day (Aug 15), the Kashmir valley can upset your itinerary a bit as a lot of separatist groups call out bandhs and strikes during this period.

3) Altitude Sickness or Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a real bitch. Taking some precautions doesn't make you a wimp

Different people have different immunity levels towards altitudes. You are the best judge on how much your body can take. Some people are severely affected and some are just mildly affected. A mild case of AMS just feels like a slight hangover. Thankfully I was just mildly affected and however stupid it sounds, I have been drinking since the age of 18, so I knew how to deal with a mild hangover. However read up on AMS and the precautions, medicines etc you can take before you start this trip

4) Drink a lot of water, eat properly and keep some sweet stuff handy

The internet is full of articles on the health benefits of water. Trust me its not overrated. I am generally not very particular about my eating habits but once I hit the higher altitudes after Srinagar and till the time I wasn't back in the lower altitudes of Manali, I religiously ensured that I have 3 to 4 litres of water everyday, proper meals and chocolates / biscuits for energy every now and then.

5) Wear a Balaclava or use a piece of clean cloth to cover your mouth while riding in very high altitudes

Image Source

At high altitudes oxygen levels are low. One tends to breathe from the mouth when riding on high altitudes. Since you are breathing hard, you could end up inhaling water vapours present in the air and water could deposit in your lungs. Sounds scary. Ok I read about this somewhere before the trip. I am not really sure if it is true. But then why take chances. Although I must add, when I stopped in between rides, I could feel the wetness in the cloth that covered my mouth.


6) Go easy on the alcohol. Trust me, the views are enough to give you a high

And you thought I was kidding

I love alcohol. I make no bones about it. But drink responsibly. Alcohol causes dehydration and does not really help with altitude sickness. Know your limits and try not to reach there. Never ever push the limits in these parts.

7) Leh isn't exactly the place to try this out

Warning: Do not try this in Leh

Image Source

Do not physically exert yourself too much in these parts. Even brisk walking in such high altitudes can take a toll on you. Take your own sweet time for anything you do. After all a vacation is just meant to slow down your life a bit. Conserve as much energy as possible till the time you feel you are very well acclimatized.


8) Points 3 to 7 are not to scare you. It's just that it doesn't hurt to be careful

Frankly I did not face any health issues and I guess most people will not. I can act all cool and frivolous about it but then I did take precautions. I did happen to meet people on the way who suffered from some sort of AMS in these parts. So once again, do read up on AMS before you embark on your Leh trip. If you feel any discomfort do stop and enquire in Army camps for medical treatment (They have oxygen cylinders and other such stuff) and check about medicines you can or cannot have
Again I am not sure of this but I did hear Dispirin for headaches is not advisable in such high altitudes.

9) Inner Line Permits / Protected Area Permits in Leh

Indian citizens require Inner Line Permits (ILP) and foreign nationals require Protected area Permits (PAP) to travel to Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso lake, Tso Moriri lake etc. You can find a lot of tour operators in Leh city who can arrange this for you or you could just head to the DC office in Leh and get the permits yourself. Will turn out to be a lot cheaper if you do it yourself and its not a very complicated process. Keep some extra passport size photographs with you when you are travelling to Leh.

P.S. It seems like there is a circular issued by the Leh DC office that starting from May 1st 2014, Indian nationals do not need an ILP and they just need to provide a valid photo id in the checkposts to go to the above mentioned places. However foreign nationals still need to get PAP. However I am not completely sure of it. Please do check about the veracity of this information. If true, its a huge relief. 

11) Wear protective gear. However headmasterish it sounds, it does save lives and limbs

These are very remote areas with no signs of humanity across long stretches. Medical attention in case of an untoward accident may be a little difficult. I had a really bad accident and I had to ask a truck to carry my bike some 300 Kms from Sarchu to Mandi across the Rohtang pass but thankfully owing to my protective gear I was unscathed.

These protective gear are a life saver

It kinda looks cool too.

Just for context, this is how the bike looked after the accident

12) Carry some extra petrol in some stretches

Specially on the Leh Manali highway and say if you are travelling to Pangong Tso or Tso Moriri lakes. Like I mentioned before, these are vast stretches without any humanity so expecting a petrol pump might be a little too optimistic. Its not uncommon to find that you have covered some 300 to 400 Kms without a petrol pump in sight.

Forget humanity, I do not think anything lives in these stretches

Although the few and far in between villages that you cross, you may get to buy some petrol in the black market at more expensive rates. But not advisable to buy from the villages as the petrol could be spurious and could be a little troublesome for your vehicle. The Jammu to Leh highway is alright. Fill up in Srinagar. After Srinagar the frequency of petrol pumps will reduce but then you will have one in say every 150 to 200 Kms

13) Carry motorcycle spare parts, get a mechanic to check your bike in Leh and if possible learn some basic things about fixing your bike.

Carry extra clutch cables, accelerator cables, fuses, tubes, a puncture kit, air pump etc along with you. From Jammu to Srinagar to Leh you will still find mechanics on the way. These mechanics may have the skills to fix your bike but maybe not the bike spare parts you require. Ask your local neighborhood mechanic for some lessons and common problems and fixes before you start the trip. On the Leh - Manali stretch, you will hardly find any mechanics. So get your bike checked by a mechanic in Leh. There are lots of them there.
But most importantly keep praying that nothing goes wrong.

14) Be nice to every truck driver on the way. Build on your Karma points

If things go very wrong, trucks are your best way out. These guys have the space to carry your bike to the next town when you are in a absolute fix. Truck drivers are nice people and will help you out although some negotiation skills may be handy

15) Keep some days spare in your itinerary if you have that luxury

Your itinerary can be upset for a host of reasons. Some roads may be closed because of weather conditions, you might need a little more time acclimatizing, your motorcycle develops a snag and takes time to fix

About Me:

A 7 month motorcycle ride that took me to every state in India, parts of Nepal and Bhutan and one town in Burma. These blog entries are inspired by this trip. Stories about people I met, stories about places I saw. Things that intrigued me, things that amused me. They say traveling changes you, they say traveling inspires you and they say a lot of other stuff. I don't know. I think a gun on the head is a better way to change people. I just hope that my travel stories entertain you

Right now I am in the process of writing a book based on this trip and figuring out the difference between a writer's block and procrastination.

You can find more information on my Facebook page and Instagram account

I am sure there are a lot more things to this list and possibly some mistakes in this list. Please do add / correct them in the comments for the benefit of anyone who is planning a trip. Also if someone has more info about the Inner line permit circular do mention in the comments.


P.S.
Click this link for Srinagar to Leh pics
Click this link for Leh pics
Click this link for Khardungla pics
Click this link for Leh to TsoMoriri pics